Ice Dispenser Microswitch

Tonight my parents got home from a long drive after dropping me off at college. They were tired and thirsty so they went to the fridge to get a glass of ice water- but nothing came out of the water dispenser. So of course they called me for advice.

This is the same Samsung fridge that had issues with the water line freezing (see our repair video on Youtube about that fix: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=whjh9TLSnSE), but it didn't sound like that was the problem this time. My dad did some troubleshooting and checked that the light inside the fridge turned off when the door closed and on when it opened. I told my parents to also check whether the light over the dispenser came on when they pressed a cup into the lever. Nothing came on, no lights or sound and no water or ice. But the light did come on when the light button was pressed. That meant it was probably a bad microswitch.

They looked up the model to find out how to unscrew and pry off the front panel. Then they took out the switch and called me back. I walked them through using a multimeter to test the switch. When the switch was pressed, it should have been letting more current through. It should have only measured 2 or 3 ohms, but it was measuring a resistance of several thousand ohms. So I told my dad to look for my drawer labeled "microswitches". He found one that was the same size and shape, just gray instead of black. The old switch was rated for 1A. The new one is rated for 16A, but it doesn't make a difference because this is a low current circuit.

My parents replaced the switch, and now the water and ice dispenser works again. I was able to help them fix it, even though I wasn't there. Maybe they should pay me for the part and a consulting fee.

Analyzing Flickering LED Christmas Lights

 Several years ago, when LEDs were just becoming popular, we bought a bunch of LED Christmas lights. They were OK but not as bright as the old style incandescent ones. They still had issues with bulbs coming loose so half a strand would go out. And of course the usual tangles. 

This year, after Christmas, I decided to buy a new set of LED lights to see if they would be any better. The new LED lights have more colors and are brighter, but seem to be more flickery than the old ones. My mom says that's not a problem- twinkling lights will look good on the tree. But it bothers me. So I decided to look at the wave patterns with my Lighting Analyzer and oscilloscope.

The wave pattern is not a sine wave or a half sine wave- it is pulsing. This explains why it looks flickery. To compare the frequency to 60 Hz, I added an antenna wire wrapped around the oscilloscope power cord (the purple line) because mains power is 60Hz. Next, I tested the old string of LED lights. It turns out that the old strand is exactly the same, just dimmer. So that's why we didn't notice the flicker on the old lights. 

Minty Mug Cakes

 I have been experimenting with microwave mug cake recipes. The best recipe so far includes colored sprinkles and vanilla for flavoring. I decided to try adding mint extract for a different flavor. We have plenty of mint growing in the garden, so I decided to take a recipe detour and make mint extract. 

One quick and easy recipe was for mint simple syrup, but this might mess up the amount of sugar in the cake. The other type of recipe was for mint extract with an alcohol base. The process is to chop mint, place it in a mason jar, add vodka, and let it sit for several weeks. The alcohol burns off during cooking, leaving just the mint flavor. This seemed like a good method, but I was impatient. I found another recipe to speed up the process. It said to cook the jar in a water bath at 135 F for 3 hours. My induction cooker wouldn't go that low, so I ended up cooking it for a shorter time at 140-160 F.  I will let it sit longer to see if it continues to get stronger before I filter out the mint leaves. Another option the recipes mention is adding a second batch of fresh mint leaves to add more flavor.

A year later, I made a new batch of mint extract, but used everclear as the alcohol base. It's 95% instead of 40%, so it seems to work better.

Back to the mug cake recipe. I started with a recipe by Lauren Allen from http://tastesbetterfromscratch.com/vanilla-mug-cake/ . I switched to oil instead of butter, and used more vanilla. I converted the 3 tablespoons of milk to 3 tablespoons of water plus one tablespoon of powdered milk. This way the dry ingredients (flour, sugar, baking powder, salt, powdered milk, and colored sprinkles) are shelf-stable, and then when I'm ready to cook it I add 2T oil, 2T water, and 1T imitation vanilla. After experimenting with different recipes and substitutions, this is the best mug cake I have found so far. The imitation vanilla flavor wasn't very strong, so that's why I wanted to try the mint extract instead. If I had store-bought peppermint oil, it would probably only take one tiny drop.   

Here's the final recipe with the mint extract:

1/4cup plus 1 1/2 teaspoons flour

2 Tablespoons sugar

1/8 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon baking powder

1 Tablespoon powdered milk

1 teaspoon colored sprinkles

2 Tablespoons canola oil

3 Tablespoons water

1 teaspoon homemade mint extract

Mix and microwave for 90 seconds.

Light Flicker Analyzer

 After the problem I had with an LED sewing machine light flickering, I decided to build a lighting flicker analyzer. I built an adapter to connect a solar panel to my oscilloscope, which allows me to see a live display of the light level vs time.  

Light Flicker Analyzer

First, I tested the mostly dark room. It was noisy with no pattern. Next, I tested the old incandescent bulb. It had a mostly smooth pattern with a very low amplitude wave.

Incandescent bulb

Next, I tested the E12 LED sewing machine bulb. The difference was quite dramatic. It showed a pulse about every 9ms (60 Hz). This explains why my photos of the sewing machine had dark stripes- the light is flashing. It's barely visible to the human eye but obvious when I took a picture.

Flickering LED

Photo of flickering light

Finally, I tested the new LED bulb from IKEA. It isn't designed to go in sewing machines (too large to fit easily and almost too bright), so I tested it in an old candelabra light. The oscilloscope results look almost identical to the incandescent bulb. The wave is very smooth and barely noticeable on the graph. This means it probably has capacitors and a better control board.

IKEA LED bulb

Custom Screwdriver Handle

 

I needed to unscrew a metal plate on the old sewing machine to clean under it, but the handles of the regular screwdrivers were too long to fit. So I made a small wooden handle for a screwdriver bit. I used a hole saw with my drill press to cut a circle from a scrap of oak flooring. At the same time, it drilled the hole in the middle to be the right size for a very tight fit for the screwdriver bit. Then I sanded the edges and forced the bit into the hole.

Why I use an Isolation Transformer with an Old Sewing Machine

 I've posted a couple of times about fixing up the old White 565 sewing machine I got from my Grandma. It has a thin cord with a small non-polarized plug, and does not have a main on/off switch. It still plugs in and runs perfectly.

The problem I wasn't expecting is that it creates electromagnetic interference (EMI). I found this out when I was using it at the same time my Dad was watching TV. It caused static on the TV. I was able to fix this by plugging the sewing machine into an isolation transformer. The isolation transformer eliminates the interference, plus it adds a main switch.

Another way I could try to fix this would be by adding a ferrite core. If it works, it would be much cheaper than having a dedicated isolation transformer for the sewing machine.

Sewing Machine Repair #2- Clutch Bypass

 I was trying to repair my grandmother's old White 565 sewing machine with the bobbin winder that didn't work. I replaced the rubber o-ring, but the clutch was slipping. It was stuck partially engaged. There's probably a better way to fix the clutch, but I don't want to put much money into this repair. Having it looked at by a professional would cost more than half the price of a new low-end machine.

I used a piece of copper wire with a screw pressing it against the inside of the handwheel. This keeps the clutch permanently engaged without slipping (but can still slip if needed). The screw can be removed if I ever decide to have it professionally repaired. 

Sewing Machine Repair- Bobbin Winder

 

I was working on repairing my grandmother's old White 565 sewing machine. The bobbin winder didn't work. The rubber o-ring that provides the friction to engage the bobbin winder had crumbled. Like any really old tire, it dry rotted. 

This type of rubber ring is used by many sewing machine models, so it might not be that difficult to buy a new one. But I found a different solution using what I already had- Lego tires!

I found a tire that was the right size, popped it on, and now the bobbin winder works. The tire I used is part number 2346 which might be the same as 56897.

Headphone Covers

 My VR headset has cushioned headphones. They are made of perforated pleather over foam, which can get sweaty, but aren't easy to clean. I bought some commercially available washable fabric covers, but the material was too fuzzy/scratchy. So I decided to make my own out of soft t-shirt material. I had some very thin elastic left over from masks, and bought some slightly wider when that ran out.

First, I used a saucer as a template to cut out a circle of fabric. The size of circle I needed was larger than you might think because I needed to be able to fold over the edge to make a channel for the elastic.

It was difficult to figure out how to fold over the edge evenly. The circumference of the outer circle is more than the circumference of the sewing line, which means it had to be gathered or pleated. My mom helped with the folding. Instead of using millions of pins, she decided to use a glue stick. With the underside of the saucer as a guide, she made a thin circle of glue about an inch from the edge, and then folded the edge back a little bit at a time around the whole circle. 

I sewed two lines of stitching around the edge to secure it and form a tunnel for the elastic. It's more of a polygon than a perfect circle. The folds aren't very even, but that won't show once the elastic is in place.

I used a safety pin to thread the elastic through the tunnel, and then sewed the ends of the elastic together. Finally, I stretched out the elastic to distribute it evenly around the edges.  I made more sets so I can have a clean one while the other set is in the wash. I hope this will make the headphones last longer. The fabric is thin enough that it doesn't interfere with the sound.

Repair- Dental Tool Charging Base

 My dentist knows I like to work with electronics, and sometimes will save up a box of projects for me. This was a cordless dental tool that wouldn't charge. The base looks similar to a cordless toothbrush or a cordless phone. I think it's actually a polisher.

The dentist was worried that the rechargeable battery inside might have gone bad. After examining it, I found that one of the contact pins on the charging base wasn't there.

 Looking inside, I saw that it hadn't actually broken. The plastic pin that should have been melted to secure it was either missing or broken. 

I added hot glue to secure it. 

I put it back together, and now the charge light comes on when the tool is on the base and it seems to work fine.